Updates in the sun, mostly….

We are parking in Tucson till the end of the month – then another nearly two weeks at another park in Tucson before we begin the trip home.  We’ve enjoyed this park (Rincon RV East).  We have spent time in the lapidary and the wood shop here working on a project (future reveal).  We’ve visited both Saguaro parks, zoo, aircraft museum and many more.  We’ve even done a bit of prospecting and metal detecting.  Just before we left Rincon East park, I also replaced the vinyl on the 32SA entrance door.  This is a common problem.  Partly poor glue, partly vinyl that shinks in the sun.  It is about a two hour job but was successful.

Having made several trips to the Rock shows in Tucson, Debbie got the idea to create new sconce lights for the living room area (we never liked the lights that the RV came with, nor the ones we replaced those with.

working on backlights  

Rover sconce lights shade valance couch

The pictures here are those lights in progress.  The stones are red and green agates and me building an LED backlight.  This last picture is the final installation along with our new shade picture.

I’ve also done a bit of refrigerator repair.  We have a residential refrig.  Last week we discovered a skating pond in the bottom of the freezer.  It was coming from the ice maker which was, strangely, making hollow ice cubes.  None of this made any sense.  I defrosted it and discovered the tube that dumps water into the ice cube tray was frozen solid.  Only the tube was just an extension and the part it connected to had a gap on top, so water ran down behind the plastic back of the freezer.  I cleaned it all up, put it back together – and made sure it was making the first batch of cubes fine.

Two days later – another ice-skating pond with everything in the bottom of the freezer frozen in place.  I turned it off – took a long look at the freezer and thought about it for a day.

So, I grabbed the step ladder and cleaned the freezer out, putting it all into a freezer bag and turned the refrigerator all the way down so I could work on it.  I removed the ice maker and found the fill tube frozen again.  There were also vents down below the ice maker that had ice coming out of the bottom of them.  That meant I had to pull the entire back panel out of the freezer.  8 screws behind little plastic covers held it in.  It was clear from minor damage to these plastic clips someone had previously taken this apart – and it wasn’t me.

Behind this panel was a fan and the evaporator coil that cooled the freezer (and probably the fridge too).  On the left side, under the ice maker fill tube was a waterfall of ice.  The fill tube turned out to be a plastic tube with the top cut open, then another flexible tube pushed over it. Thus, if the attached tube froze, water would spill out of the top of the first tube and run down onto the evaporator.partially melted ice dam

But why?  I could defrost all the ice, but I couldn’t put it all together unless I could figure out why.  Here is my thinking:  A few times in the past, the freezer door got left slightly open, the last time was just a couple of days before we noticed the first frozen puddle.  Also – the vents below the ice maker were a bit misshapen. They had been a bit melted; more open at the top than the other three sides.  Between that and the ice covering the bottom of those vents caused a higher velocity air flow up right were the fill tube was, freezing it.  It also directed air away from bottom of the ice maker – meaning it didn’t freeze the cubes all the way before it dumped.

At least that was all I could figure.  I used my heat gun to soften up the vents and straightened them out and went to put it all together.

bracket that holds ice maker fill tube with popped screwI had removed the extension tube from the fill tube and I pushed it back on – and pop!  The fill tube pushed backward out of the refrigerator.  Now if this was at home – I’d just slide the refrigerator out and fix it.  This is an RV and the refrigerator is mounted 20 inches off the floor.  I went outside to look up in the small gap between he outside wall and refrigerator.  There is no way to get my head in there, so I shine a bright flashlight up there and take my phone at high zoom and found this.

Sigh…..  A discussion ensued.  Deb suggested hemostats, which worked.  I reached through the extension and grabbed a hold of the fill tube to hold it while I pushed the extension on.  Then I added silicon around the tube to hold it in place.

It is a couple of days later I write this and so far, all is well.

Of course, it never ends.  I saw a quote the other day on Facebook:  “The only thing that always works on an RV is the owner.”  For sure.  When we raised the jacks, water poured out of the bottom of the right water bay.  Looking around – I figured out the puddle was on top of the grey tank… what?  I got my inspection camera out and examined the top of the tank and determined the leak was coming in from above, right where the two sink drains came down.  I went upstairs and opened the inspection board in front of the toilet and searched and felt around – as far as I could see the drains were dry.  A lot of feeling around and I realized there was a bit of water sitting on top of some foam, which came from a fresh water line that was hardly even wet but hard water stains on it – which went up to the back of the toilet where I found a clamp that wasn’t quite clamping.  At the time, only a tiny weep of water was coming out so I presume some other factor caused it to leak more at other times.  I tightened the clamps and have rechecked it over 24 hours and it’s still dry.

Yesterday we awoke to over three inches of snow.  Yes, in Tucson.  We drove through Saguaro East and took a zillion pictures.  The snow was all gone by noon.

DC power management, replacement.

The Problem

I’ve mentioned in other posts the problems we’ve had over the years with the DC power panel located (in the 32SA) in the passenger rear compartment, next to the batteries.  This panel has the main battery cut-off switch, the Inverter DC power switch, four DC breakers for distributing power to various parts of the RV house and a hidden component the battery combiner relay.

The primary problem with this panel is the Inverter fuse which is a 1 by 1 by 3/4 DC power panelinch block mounted between the battery buss (leaving the main switch) and a buss bar that bolts to the back of the Inverter Switch.  Apparently, this bolt that holds that fuse between the two busses isn’t torqued properly and the design is such that heat builds up and the fuse insulation fails (adding to the problem).  As the fuse gets  hot, heat conducts up to the inverter switch and melts part of the switch until it fails.  There was even one report in facebook of this panel catching fire.

Recall

There is an NHTSA recall for this problem for various 2019 to 2022 models.  I personally don’t like the solution as covered in the recall.  If you have a 2000 watt inverter, the solution is to install a cable between the fuse and inverter switch (which won’t pipe heat directly up) as well as check the torque of the fuse bolt.  If you have a smaller inverter, they just check the fuse bolt torque.

I consider this panel to be a total fail.  In order to pull the panel to work on it, the only safe way is to disconnect the battery (usually recommended anyway) beause the support bracket comes very close to the main battery buss when removing the panel.  Fuses shouldn’t be buried behind panels.  The design of the fuse depends on a thin plastic insulator which fails as the fuse heats up which results in the bolt shorting the two busses which means there is no fuse.  Finally – the four DC circuit breakers are poorly supported and heavy wires are connected to them, also not supported/restrained, so sometimes just pulling the panel out and putting back in causes one of the breakers to physically break (happened to me once and also happened to a tech at Red Bay while he was replacing this panel).

The Replacement

The following describes MY solution.  I’m not recommending this for everyone.  It requires significant expense, tools and expertise most RVers would have issue with.

I designed a “replacement” for the
DC power components Tiffin/Lippert DC distribution panel.  It is all based on discrete components and thus takes up a lot more room.  It is amazing just how much stuff, Tiffin (Lippert) stuffed into that tiny panel – and not amazing why parts of the original panel failed so often.

Note:  some who are familiar with my story might say – you installed Lithiums and that overloaded the panel.  Nope.  Right out of the gate on our first trip, with the original Lead Acid batteries and original Magnum Inverter, anytime we used the inverter for a significant load (like the microwave), the inverter had fits and often shut down and the Spyder system rang a low voltage alarm.  We ended up using the generator any time we needed to cook.

When we started out with the lithiums – I checked the alternator rating: 150 amps.  I never saw the batteries charging from the engine more than 90 amps.  I believe this is because the lithiums were never mostly discharged.  We often used the generator when boondocking rather than the engine to charge.  One night we spent boondocking behind a restuarant.  We hit the road very early in the morning while still dark out after running the batteries down to below 40%.  As we took off, I looked at the charging rate and it was 120 amps into the batteries.  Add in headlights, heater fan and anything else – we had to be pushing the generator on the engine to its limit for the first hour.  I didn’t like pushing it that hard.  My solution was to install a Victron DC to DC battery charger.  This will limit the engine to house batteries to 30 amps, which is fine because we rarely need to charge up the house batteries quickly with the RV engine.  It should keep me from pushing the engine alternator so hard.

The Tiffin battery connect solenoid links the house and chassis batteries any time the engine is running or when the battery linking switch on the dash is depressed (also maybe when generator is running).  I didn’t want it connecting when the engine is running – the DC to DC charger takes care of that by monitoring the chassis battery voltage to determine when the engine is running.   I disabled the Tiffin logic by putting a switch between it and the solenoid.  Thus I can flip the switch and still use the dash switch to connect the batteries.  My inverter has a trickle charger to keep the chassis batteries topped off so I don’t need the generator function either.