And so it begins again….

We are fixing up our Forest River, Sunseeker Class C.  Is it broken? You ask.  Well sort of.  Isn’t it new? you ask….  Well yes it is. Doesn’t Forest River make a quality product?  Says so in their glossies.  Nope.   Its been broken since the day it was put together.  No it was broken the day some Forest River designer/planner finished the specifications.

Our dash radio sucked.  It was a new Pioneer unit.  Probably a model that Pioneer couldn’t move off the shelves and Forest River got a good price on.  Besides having a clunky interface – it had an annoying habit of connecting to my wife’s phone and playing music any time the van was started.  She wanted Bluetooth to work for phone calls but didn’t want the music starting up at in-opportune times.

The radio was also set up to be the Rear Camera and Turn Camera monitor.  The rear view mirror on a class C is useless for seeing what is behind – so having a full time rear view camera is useful and an important safety tool. So we had the radio configured to show the camera full time.  When we hit a turn signal – the  view switched to the side camera.  Those cameras by the way were junk.  But that part worked.  When the turn signal went off though, the video would switch back to the rear camera for 1/2 a second, then switch to the radio primary view for 5 seconds, then most of the time, switch to the rear view again.  When it didn’t switch back, a manual walk through the menues was required to bring it back.

Also when in rear view mode, no radio functions, including the clock were visible – and if you wanted to go wade through stations – there was no rear view.

Oh, and the sound quality sucked.  That was in part at least, the cheap speakers Ford or Forest River installed.

So, we bought a new radio and XMradio receiver and speakers and tore the dash apart.  While we were there, we installed a compass, outside temp gauge, and additional cigarette lighter port and USB charger.  And a CB radio(down on the engine bump).

In order to access wiring, I needed to pull the plastic panel under the steering wheel in front of the driver’s knees.  It is held in with four clips – two on top, two on bottom.  I noticed the two clips on the bottom were NOT plugged into their spots.  When I pulled the panel down this is what I found.  Crimp on

wiring mess for Radio/video
Forest River average wiring

connectors going to crimp on connectors going to fuses going to wires that ran everywhere.  What this picture doesn’t show is the wire coiled up and shoved up into the dash and the video switcher also up higher under the dash.  The reason the panel wasn’t clipped in was that there was too much wire and crimp connectors in the way.

So I tried working with this mess, but eventually decided to just fix it up right.  All power was being drawn from a 8 or 10 gauge wire run to that spot by Ford that went to a 50 AMP fuse up in the main fuse box.  Yes, 50 amp.  So some circuits that were connected in had their own fuses, as they should.  Some didn’t.  When you run a 16 gauge or even smaller away from a wire that big on a fuse that big, you HAVE to put in a fuse because that small wire may not be able to blow the 50 amp fuse if shorted to ground and thus would turn into a really long toaster element.

I purchased a 6 slot fuse panel and ran everything through it.  All wires were soldered and shrink tubed. connection ends were crimped and soldered and screwed into the fuse panel.

But I wasn’t done.  I needed to run the CB antenna coax out through the wire path from the driver kick panel through the door and out by the mirror as we were mounting the antenna behind the left rear view mirror.  To get access to that path, I needed to remove the cover for the hood release – and to remove that, I needed to pull up the cover on the driver side entry step.  The first thing I noticed was it was loose – and it came up way too easy.   The picture to the left is what I found.  A bunch of loose wire with zero attempt to corral it into the channels so it wouldn’t be crushed between the step and metal frame.  I cleaned it up, and wire tied into the channels.  The image on the right shows the rear view camera wire crushed in two places and somehow, part of the insulation burned off in a third.  Oh, and the step normally has 5 clips holding it in place – three of them were broken off.   It took me only a few minutes to clean up the wiring and restrain it into the channels with a few tie-wraps.  And just a little care and the step clips wouldn’t have been broken.  The step needs to be repaired or replaced as it flaps loose and rides up higher than it is supposed to be – meaning someone could catch a shoe on it, getting into the van.  I also ran video for the rear view and power up the left side to the rear view mirror area, where I put the Rear Videw Monitor as well as the Dashcam.

Inside bed box.
Inside Bed box showing flexible pipe, wiring for slide.

Moving on.  Forest River decided that the left side of the main bed didn’t need any power.  No A/C, No 12V DC.  Nothing.  For the first trip, I ran two extension cords from the right side of the bed behind the mattress.  So, I stand the mattress up and take the screws off the two pieces of plywood covering the bed box.  Because the bed box is part of the slide – there were a number of arrangements under there to handle water, grey sewer and power.   So the first thing I noticed was – there as NO reason not to have run power to the left side.  Right there is a 120 V A/C junction box less than three feet away. Also – the white wires are DC power runs to various parts of the slide, including the 12 V and USB ports on the bed’s right side.  Easy, Peasey, right?

So, I get an electrical box, GFCI plug, DC cigarette lighter and USB charger port  and install them into the space below the left bed shelf.  It’s not all that convenient, but it works and is out of the way.  Its not that I need to plug and unplug stuff all that often.  I ran the AC line over to the junction box attached to the slide, added a cable clamp and used proper sized wire nuts to add the connection into the existing wire.  

I also used some nail-in clamps to lock down the wire.  Half done.  I created a DC line to run over and connect into the DC wires going to the slide.  When I started separating the wires – A  CRIMP FELL OFF!!!  sigh….   Over and over again, I find these crimps either LOOSE – or when the wires are shoved in – they aren’t properly twisted so half or more of the wire strands bunch up at the bottom of the crimp and never get crimped.  Yes, it makes connection but also creates a resistive spot – that will heat up first if there is a heavy load on that line.

 

I get the impression from examining the outside of the crimps – that they are using regular pliers to do their crimps.  If they were using your average electrical crimpers, there would be marks.  The outside just shows a flattened crimp, nothing more.  I found THREE loose connectors in the wires under the bed.  Other things I found while I was down there?  The AC lines are in a flex conduit – which is supposed to reach all the way into the junction box.  That line came up out of the floor – couldn’t bre moved so I could only tape it up.

 

Where grey waste pipe exited through the floor – only two thirds of the gap around the pipe was sealed with foam.  I grabbed a can of foam spray and sealed it up proper.  A quick test of AC and DC ports, some tie-wraps to neaten things up and one last task. The under bed storage – a piece of plywood on a hinge cover the storage.  The problem is to open it, one has to lift the mattress with one hand, then try to wedge your finger tips under the edge of the plywood to pry it up.  Then stand there while someone else actually accesses the storage area.  Its a real pain.  Mod 1, was to take some nylon webbing and screw a couple of loops into the underside of the plywood.  This at least will make it easier to get a hold of the wood.  Mod 2 will be to install a couple of spring pistons to help hold the plywood up once it is open.  I have a pair but ran out of time to get them installed.

This crimp thing seems to be systematic.  The odd thing is the AC connections were well made.  Perhaps they have to have someone different do AC circuits and DC circuits can be done by whomever walks in the door.  Now I feel like I need to pull the power panel and most every other cover hiding connections and check them for loose crimps.

Way to go Forest River.  Poor quality as usual.  Next up – the trim over the front cab bunk is coming loose.

 

 

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Bluebird gets Toad preparations

Journey and Blue
Journey and Blue

Blue…… so we are going to tow our 2015 F150 pickup truck (AKA Toad) behind our Class C. Yup, you read that right. We want to do this right and we want to be able to disconnect quickly. That led us to the Roadmaster Nighthawk for a non-binding tow bar. It is quick to connect and disconnect. Doesn’t bind, folds up on the tow vehicle, can be locked and is pretty (led lights at night). (oh, we didn’t take any pictures WHILE we were working as we were pre-occupied with just getting the work done).

We also needed a breaking system. For that we settled on RVI Brake 3 because it involved less installation on the truck, and could also be disconnected quickly. (And since we seem to change things up every so often – it would be easy to move to another Toad.)  I put together orders for all the pieces parts (we needed a charge adapter to keep the truck charged and dedicated power connection for the Rvi Brake 3).

Since I’ve just had shoulder surgery, doing the installations would not be easy. We checked with the boys (our sons)– and their availability wasn’t the greatest. (Empty Nester’s means empty nests) We checked with a local truck customizing shop and they wanted $1000+ to do the installs. We didn’t like that either. So that left my wife, Deb, and I to do the work.  Now normally – I’d spend a couple of days in the garage doing this work with maybe a little help here and there. But since I’m still recovering from two shoulder surgeries, us working together means 2 and ½ arms, total.

Right Hitch Base Bracket from underneath.
Right Hitch Base Bracket from underneath.

Deb and I started with the base brackets for the hitch. We spent about 6 hours one day and managed to get one side done. We learned a lot and figured the other side would be easier. Fortunately, t was. We got our son Rob to come over the next day and we, three, managed to get the other side done in just a couple of hours. Each bracket required three bolts. The nuts that went with them were basically steel rectangles with drilled and tapped holes with wire handles welded on. In other words, metal lolly pops with a

This is as much of the hitch base bracket that sticks out.
This is as much of the hitch base bracket that sticks out.

hole in them. We had to stick each one through a hole in the frame, 6 inches away and line them up with a hole, then put the bolt through and get it started. But it’s not even that simple. The bracket had to be held in place (weighs about 10 pounds). AND… all bolts were supposed to have thread-locking compound on them which dries in about 20

This shows the uppoer bolt for the base bracket.
This shows the upper bolt for the base bracket.

minutes so we couldn’t take our time. Lastly – they third bolt required a hole to be drilled high on the side of the frame. My part on all this was mostly limited to manipulating the steel lollypops.  So total man-hours on this part was about 18 hours.

 

 

So, that was part 1 of 5 or so.

Rob stopped by on another day and helped me install the brackets for the tow connections and the bracket for the break-away switch. This required a trip to the hardware store as the supplied self-taping screws seemed like a lousy way to attach brackets especially since the holes were right near the edge of the bumper. We used real bolts, washers and lock nuts. Time not counting hardware store – 2 hours.

Part three was running wire from the rear tail-lights to the front of the truck. Sounds simple right? Well I ordered a wiring kit – and when it came, it didn’t say it worked for our truck – so silly me, I sent it back and ordered another one that the company web site claimed worked. It turned out to be for CHEVY’s, not Ford. I went back to the web site and dug around and found that they recommended two different models for our truck(one was clearly wrong). I called them – and the first one I had, was supposedly the right one.

So, I ordered it again. Upon arrival, we pulled the tail light and checked the connectors – and they were “almost right”. They were the right size, connectors and pin spacing, but Ford uses “guides” in the corners that point in different directions. Three of the four were right – the fourth was wrong. In the end, I “fixed” my connectors with a pocket knife.

So, now I divert a bit. I’ve been working on cars since the mid sixties when I started helping my father work on our car (Corvair bus). Most of the time, I’m working by myself. Even when I worked at the VW shops, I was working jobs myself. I’ve done a few major jobs with another person. For example, Tom (my son) and I pulled the head of the engine in his pickup – well 5 times or so – but that is another story. My wife knows how to use most tools, but hasn’t done a lot of work. She also has a lot of ideas. So do I – and of course, since I’ve done so much work, I’ve got fairly

Taillight wiring with blue split casing added.
Taillight wiring with blue split casing added.

strong opinions on how to do things. Deb worries about a lot of things that I often don’t think need to be worried about – but sometimes, it turns out for the best. Sometimes she has good ideas on how to do things that I haven’t considered. For example, the wiring harness was just your standard low voltage trailer type wiring. On the truck, all exposed wiring had a split cover over it, so of course we needed to provide the same for this tail-light wiring. We hopped in the truck, went to the other end of town and picked up 30 feet of pretty blue split cover and I covered and taped the entire taillight wiring harness. Idea two – I was planning on just tie-wrapping the wire along side the frame. Deb decided running it INSIDE the frame would be better. She had no idea how to actually accomplish that, but this is where we work it out together – I did. While we were picking up the split cover, we also picked up a snake for pulling electrical wire. We started at the front of the frame and pushed it back through the frame. At one point it stopped moving. I had her rattle it while I figured out how far it got. I found the point at which it stopped. It had hit a cross member and looped back. So, she pulled it back and I guided it under the cross member with my finger through a convenient hole in the side of the frame and it then proceeded all the way back.   From there we taped the wire on – and pulled it all the way through to the front. I actually hadn’t expected it to really work – but it was one of those situations were it was easier to go along and see than fight it. In the end, she had a good idea as it only took a few minutes to run the cable vs sliding under the truck all the way while tie wrapping the cable. Man-hours – 2.

Brake Away Switch mounted right of the license plate.
Brake Away Switch mounted right of the license plate.

On yet another day, we installed the remaining components. The breakaway switch needed a wire run inside the cabin to the RVI Brake 3. Power needed to be run from the battery to the RVI Brake 3. Due to the connectors and components pre-wired – those wires needed to pass through the firewall in opposite directions. We used the wire snake again – moving one wire through first and puling the other back through. I ended cutting

Blue Tow Plug
Blue Tow Plug

part of the rubber grommet to make this easier. And of course we had to seal it back up. There is also a battery charger that takes power from the tow vehicle and keeps the battery in the truck charged – since in order to flat tow, the key has to be on while truck is set to a “tow mode”. The RVI Brake also uses power.

So, today we pulled all these wires, made connects to the battery and connected all the wires to the 6 pin plug that the two bar cables connects into. Man hours – 3.

Side View of RVIB3 with spacer tube
Side View of RVIB3 with spacer tube

Lastly – the RVI Brake 3 sits on the floor and has an arm that locks onto the brake pedal.  It pushes on the brake which means it has to push up against something.  On the F150 – there is no cross bar under the seat – so one is provided.  BUT, between the floor mats and the rise of the floor as it goes back toward the seat – the RVIB3 doesn’t sit flat on the floor if slid all the way back.  So I found a piece of PVC that would fit between the RVIB3 and the bracket.  I added velcro so it would stick to the RVI B3.

We are ready to go!  In theory, we can disconnect in maybe two minutes.

All this with one shoulder I can only partly use and another shoulder I can’t really use. Surgery on the first shoulder was 5 months to go. The second was 1 month ago. They tell me it can take a year to get full use back. My issues started almost a year ago – so its been a year and have maybe another year to go before my shoulders are back to normal – and that sucks.

That totals up to 25 people-hours. $1000/25 = $40 per hour – not too shabby. When I started work at the Volkswagon shop, I was earning $3.50/hour.

 

 

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