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Snowbirding

It’s been a while.  We’ve been busy – I know, sounds odd to hear from someone retired…or maybe we just get so stuck in our routines that it seems like we are busy.

Last post, we were about to leave Henry’s Lake State Park, headed south toward southwestern Utah.  We spent a couple of weeks in Hurricane (or as the locals pronounced it: Hurrican) near Zion.  Then moved on to an RV park in St George, just a few miles away.

Puppies…. Yes, we have two new puppies from the Humane Society in Wisconsin.  Deb and a friend made a mad dash across the country while we were still at Henry’s to pick them up.  We were told they were siblings and the DNA test we’ve had done confirmed they indeed are.  They are an exceptional pair, well-behaved, smart, cuddly, and beyond cute.  Here is a small sampling of the zillions we have on our phones.  Click the small image to see a full size.

 

 

 

 

As you can see, they are never very far apart.  Whenever we are gone, they lay on a doggie bed and watch for us in the “doggie window”.

I never quite finished the fender repair and now I think it will have to wait till we get back to Illinois (or more).  The sites here in Tucson are pretty close to be spray painting without upsetting the neighbors.  I have an area where the color is a bit mismatched and another area where the paint seems to be cracked (perhaps it was too cold when I painted) and the entire area needs a better clear coat once all the base coat work is done.  One has to look closely to see the defects, but it is WAY better than it was. 

While we were in St George (to be near our daughter’s family for the holidays), they moved from their motorhome to a fifth wheel.  We spent a lot of time helping them move in and customize their new RV; including building a three-high bunk bed for three of the four grand-girls. 

 

We are now in a 55+ park in Tucson till the end of March.  There is lots to do here – already have had the bikes out several times, including some trips with the dogs.  They didn’t like riding in separate baskets, so now they ride together in one basket.  We are still considering ways to keep them a bit more out of the wind as we ride.  

The list of RV repairs and mods seems to stay about as long no matter how many we take care of and check off.  The electric fireplace, which we use a lot, quit one day.  I managed to get it running again but since we are dependent on it to stay warm, we now have a new one.  The outside porch light has been replaced.  The old one had water incursion and half the LEDs had died.  The silicone caulking Tiffin used was impossible to get off – so I just purchased a physically larger light to install over the mess.  I’ve bought a new set of horns that are supposed to be louder than the facotry ones.  I need to install them.  And so on and so forth……

Oh, we finally purchased a Power Watchdog (hardwired) and installed it.  I tried twice to order from Amazon and twice they sent the wrong Watchdog model (corded instead of hardwired).  I then ordered from E-trailer and got the correct item at the same price.  I still need to install a new battery monitor shunt – the old one has lost its mind and says the same number of amps no matter what is going on.  

An RV detailer stopped by a few days ago.  He claimed he had someone cancel an appointment at the last minute and since our rig was the dirtiest one in the row, he made us an offer we couldn’t refuse.  The motorhome is now clean and shiny, saving me a 3-to-4-day job and lots of sore muscles.

I’ve also been working on a project.  At Henry’s someonepower box for telescope wanted to throw away an old E-bike.  We took it and I looked it over – it was quite trashed; almost nothing worth saving.  But it still had the battery.  With a zillion different randomly named e-bikes out there, the used battery probably wasn’t worth trying to find another bike owner to sell it to.  Besides I had another idea.  I have a telescope that needs several USB ports and two 12V lines to run the scope, cameras, focuser, and a laptop.  In the past, I  used a set of individual battery packs to run it all.  I realized I could repurpose the batteries from the bike.  (when near the RV I just used AC power, but I want to be able to take it away from civilization and city lights). Update: I’ve taken the scope et al to the edge of the park where I have a clear view of the sky and worked off the tailgate of the truck several times, on battery power.  It works great, though the seeing at the park isn’t very good.

Mike working on powerpack for telescope
Welding bus strips to batteries

I disassembled the battery and separated all the individual cells.  For a 48-volt plus battery, they put 12 cells in series, then place the series stacks in parallel.  Since I needed 12 volts, I needed to create groups of three or four, and then placed those groups in parallel.  I didn’t bother to measure the cells at first, and assumed four in series when three probably would have worked fine (these particular li-ions batteries charged up to 4.2 volts instead of 3.7).  I purchased interlocking plastic bits to hold the cells together, some nickel-plated strips, and a small battery spot welder and assembled the battery pack.  Then I ordered a fuse box, some panel connectors, meters, and a switch and found a small toolbox it would all just fit into. Finally, a charger spec’d to the voltage of my battery pack and a pair of voltage regulators to provide 12 volts to the scope and focus motor.  Everything else runs off USB ports, of which I have four.  There is room to add more, should I come up with morepower bank for telescope switch on. things to connect.  Testing is to commence shortly.  Sure, I probably could have bought something similar, but it wouldn’t have been nearly as educational or fun.  I am, after all, an old electrical engineer.  UPDATE: well I did add some more connections.  I tried running the iPad and Macbook off the USB ports and they just don’t have enough power, so I added 2 cigarette lighter-style ports and bought a 12V adapter for each of them.    I ran everything for 3 sessions each 2+ hours long and still had power left over so I imagine I could run an all-night session and be good to go.  I also discovered the toolbox cover isn’t rainproof……

On the to-do list: install balance beads in the front tires to see if it corrects what appears to be a balance issue at 55-60.  Replace the awning lifts which sometimes don’t operate correctly.  We bought a new tow bar – all the options for fixing/upgrading it just were too much hassle.   Install a new Battery Monitor Shunt on the house batteries  (we now have a new Brooklyn Bedding Mattress and I have to upgrade the lift cylinders on the bed to accommodate the heavier mattress). UPDATES Balance beads installed – boy was that a pain coaxing the beads in through a valve stem. They do seem to have helped. The new tow bar seems to be working – now the RVIBrake is having fits for unrelated reasons. The Battery Monitor is still waiting. The awning strut was replaced (pain in the but), but it works better now and it turns out the old one was the source of the horrible noise when we closed the awning. New lift cylinders were installed on the bed. Oh, horns. Two problems with the factory horns: 1 – the horn buttons on the steering wheel were difficult to find the right spot and took lots of pressure. 2 – the horns were not very loud and were mounted high in the engine compartment on the driver’s side. So, I ordered a pair of louder horns, a high-current 12V relay, and a couple of push-button switches to try. I pulled the center steering wheel cover off to see if I could make the buttons easier to push – but it is all molded together and thus inaccessible. I pulled the horn wire connector off, drilled a hole top center of the cover, and installed a 3/4″ RED push button. Out under the hood, I used the Ford horn wire to operate a relay with power right off the battery (yes I always use a fuse) and mounted ALL FOUR HORNS just below the radiator pointing out the front. They do make a lot of noise and Deb did need to use them once on the way home.

Till next time.

Mike

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When does it end?

Before we start,  I DO like to travel.  Normally.  Of course, when I happen to be the person on the front line when something breaks, traveling can be a bit stressful.  I sometimes sit there and think: “Is that a new noise?”  It’s been nearly a year since the engine blow-up but there has been a constant string of little to medium-sized issues.

In my last post, I referred to a rear axle flange leak – that I tightened the nuts and cleaned up the oil.  We drove back toward our home base and checked – and yes, it was still leaking.  But before that- this week+ has been one thing after another.  So here we start…..

I started both researching the axle leak problem and looking for a seal.  I found several posts and videos where DIYers took care of their F53 axle flange leaks.  More on that below.  The immediate issue was where to get a new gasket in just over a week we would be stationary.  No online place either had one or could get one to us in less than two weeks.  I hit up my local Ford dealer and they promised to get one (I always order two) delivered in a few days – and they did.

Our 2019 Tiffin is based on a Ford F53 stripped chassis.  This chassis seems to come with one of three different transaxles.  None of the numbers on the transaxle seemed to match up with anything I could find on the Internet.  Most references were for 8-stud axle flanges.  Mine had twelve.  Aside from the issue of getting the right gasket, the torque values for the various flange stud nuts is very different based on the size of the studs (6 or 8 studs flanges use larger diameter and higher torque values than the twelve).

I had never dealt with this size of transaxle before.  The F53 has dual wheels on the rear.  The hub on each side, to which the wheels bolt and the brake disk attach connects to the transaxle via a pair of bearings.  Without the axle shaft installed, the hub would free wheel.  F53 12 Bolt axle flangeA “half axle” then inserts through the hub and a spline shaft connects with the gearing inside the transaxle.  The Flange on the end of the half-axle bolts to the hub, and thus drives it.  There is a thin paper gasket that seals transaxle oil from leaking between the flange and the hub.

The transaxle is filled with oil high enough that it runs out to the bearings in the hubs.  I let oil out of the transaxle case so I didn’t have to deal with a lot of oil running out when I pulled the axle.  There are three plugs in the case – one at the bottom to fully drain, one part way up the side for a partial drain and one higher up which is the fill and full-measure port.  The case is vented, so if you pull the plug on the middle port, it will drain and drain quite fast.  I let oil run out, until it slowed a bit and put the plug back in.  My estimate was it was low enough to minimize the oil that would come out later (it did).

The process goes something like this: place the RV on a flat surface, with wheel chocks in place.  During removal and re-installation you will need to release the parking brake and place transmission in neutral. Remove the hub cover (the left side has left-hand threads).  Mark the flange and hub, so that when reassembling, you can line everything up the same way.  Remove the flange nuts.  Now release the brake and go to neutral.  The flange should pull out fairly easily if all pressure on the drive system has been removed.

I cleaned up both sides (hub and flange).  I removed the remainder of the gasket with a utility knife and buffed up the surfaces with 3M green scrubber and did a final cleaning with a paper towel wetted with brake cleaner.  I applied the gasket dry (as per instructions).  The axle slid back in and with a little bump and jockeying, it mated in just the same place it came out.

The service manual specified to tighten the nuts in a star pattern – that is start with one nut – then go opposite (180 degrees), then 90 degrees, then another 180.  Or based on a clock, noon, 6, 9 and 3.  Then move to the next set and tighten in the same order.  With twelve bolts, that meant three sets of 4.  I snugged by hand, then set the torque wrench to 20, 40, and 65, in turn, following the pattern each time.  Finally, I cleaned up the hub, hub cover and wheel with brake cleaner so that if anything leaked again, I could easily tell.

After installing the cover, I added back new gear oil (my service manual spec’d 75W140.  It took 6 pints – it all depends on how much yours leaked and how much drained out.

We were waiting to leave town for one last medical test on me (which turned out good).  We headed northwest, into Iowa, and stayed the first night at a Harvest Host (Alpaca Farm).  It was our second trip to that host and it was as great as the first time.  It was hot during the day, but by evening it was cool enough to sleep with the windows open.  The next day was a long one – 6 plus hours on the road.  The axle flange didn’t leak – that was great.

Debbie and I weren’t really in sync that day.  We were having issues with gas stations.  Flying J and Pilot stations were limiting credit card purchases to $100, even in the RV lanes.  You can’t fill up an 80-gallon tank on $100 unless you travel back to the 1960’s.  AND, when I put my card in again, the station, or the card company denies your charge – EVEN IF I PUT IN A DIFFERENT CARD!!! So we pull into the left RV lane and there are bags on the left pumps – the easiest one to use.  But there are pumps on the right side of that lane – so I try that – “processing” forever.  (AND there was a deep puddle I had to wade to get to asshole parking in the waythe right pump – wet shoes!)  Ok, the right lane is now empty – so Deb drives around the lot to enter the right lane but some bozo parked his RV and trailer in the way, forcing a tighter turn into the right lane.  I was worried about the truck jumping the curb, as was Deb.  We weren’t agreeing on when to turn which way.  Deb was halfway into the lane when I in frustration said,”Just pull up, I’ll tell you when to stop” – when I heard a crunch.  front left fender damageThe left front fender hit the island guard that was sticking WAY THE HELL OUT INTO THE GAS LANE.  Shit!  To add insult to injury, this lane didn’t like my card either so I had to walk into the station to prepay.  Oh, and some stations put a $500 hit on my account, which is adjusted later to the actual amount – all the while limiting the

 exact same purchase to $100.  After filling up, we pulled out of the lane and parked in the lot to add half a roll of tape to the fender.  Some Flying J’s just plain suck rocks.  Others are great.  This one obviously sucked boulders!!

Update:  I am fixing this myself.  I’ve done lots of body work and paint, but very little fiberglass before.  The fiberglass broke in about 10 places.  Trying to work through insurance and finding a place to get the work done quickly (likely to be in a shop for a week or more) – we just couldn’t see doing that.  I’m almost through with the fiberglass work.  Then finish it out with glazing, primer, and paint.  It turns out I can get the same BASF paint in two different spray options.  We shall see.

When we pulled into our RV park – the girl was “new and on her own”.  She assigned us a site but we found a large fifth wheel parked there.  Back to the office – and a new site – backed in – but found only 30 amp service.  Back again – assigned another site and it had a very antiquated and jury-rigged 50 amp, but it worked.  Then the fun begins.  While unhitching the pickup truck, I found something wrong with the RoadMaster Nighthawk tow bar.  I couldn’t get the hitch to catch in the storage position.  It was sticking out too far and wouldn’t recess.  I presumed something in the stinger was broken and the bar was about to separate.  That wouldn’t be good.

Of course, I didn’t have the correct socket, so we went out and bought one and some supplies in case I could put it back together. Nighthawk repair I managed to remove the nut (inside the stinger) that held the tow bar in and couldn’t, for the longest time, figure out what was supposed to be there.  The nut I removed was trying its best to slide out of the stinger so there had to be a washer, spring, or something in there originally, that had broken into pieces and fallen out of the stinger.

nighthawk repairI couldn’t find any diagram of the internals of the stinger.  I finally decided there was a washer missing.  So, a trip to Menards was on the schedule for 6 am the next morning.  And wonder of wonders, I found a grade 8 washer there that was exactly the right size – and a better-fitting socket.  Back home – lubricate and reassemble it all, install on Rover and we are ready to leave and water starts dripping out of the speaker just overhead of the driver.  We had downpours much of the night.  I opened up the back of the cabinet but couldn’t directly identify the leak (it’s way overhead).  I went on the roof and dried off the area but could not find any break in the sealants.  Out of frustration, I coated all the seams in the area with self-leveling sealant.  Won’t know if it worked until it rains again – which seems to be coming soon. (It rained cats, dogs, and elephants at the next park, and no leak. Yea!!!)

We found a park today that had vacancies for three days.  A little relaxation is in order.

Mike

P.S. THE DAMN RVLOCK DOESN”T WORK EITHER!!!!