Summer Loop

Summer 2019 Badlands, Canada, Glacier, Yellowstone, Tetons

We’ve been on the move a lot – so not much time for video or blogs.  Or another way to say it, is we’ve not yet learned to travel in “learning to live on the road mode” verses “being in vacation mode”.  We’ve also been mini-caravanning, which also places constraints on the schedule.  We HAVE taken a thousand or so pictures and videos. 

We left central Illinois just into June and headed straight to the Badlands where we spent a few days boondocking near the spot we stayed last year.  One thing I noticed when I was looking through Apple maps while we were there – was that the satellite view was taken WHEN WE WERE LAST THERE!  Coincidences…..  Our previous rig, a Class C, was precariously perched on a point. Hebards Travels and 1st Class RV Adventures were parked nearby.

But back to living on the road.  I suppose once we get to the point where we go on the road full time, we will finally slow down.  We have at times, spent up to three weeks in once place, but most of the time we only manage 3 to 5 days and the majority of campsites we only spend one or two nights.  Toss in shopping, dumping, scenic drives, safari runs and hiking – there isn’t a lot left in the day, week or month.

My “arthritis” isn’t any better.  I put that word in parentheses because we still aren’t sure what it is that I’m afflicted with.   I’m living with and sometimes working through the pain.  On one hand, I’m told that some exercising is good for arthritis.  On the other, if I do too much (like go for a couple mile hike), I pay for it the next day.  On the third hand, doing nothing doesn’t help either.  

Our new Solar works great when we have sun, but most of the time we haven’t had enough.  It’s not that the sun hasn’t been out (though we’ve had our share of rain), it has been mostly our choice of camping spot, often deep in the woods or an older well-shaded RV park.  Apgar and Gros Ventre aren’t great spots for sun unless you get lucky.  When there is sun, it works well.  We also know that 800 watts often isn’t enough for our daily power needs but it does help measurably.  Someday, four more panels and 2 to 4 more batteries would be the plan.

For the most part, we continue to be happy with our rig.  We’ve had some more issues I’ll cover later, but overall, yes, we absolutely would buy another tiffin.  

We had a minor scrape with a tree trunk in a Canadian park.  One of the things we’ve consistently find (both private and public parks) is they over-estimate people’s ability to shoe-horn a large rig into a small spot.   I’m not sure who’s fault this was.  Those of us who are just looking for a nice place to park for a few days will take almost any site when offered.  Parks, national, state or private need the revenue and yes, simply want to be of as much use as possible.  The Canadian spot we were assigned and pull-through loop.  Loop is better defined as a 30 ft long driveway, a 90 degree left turn into a 40 ft parking spot, with a 45 degree turn out into the road.  In retrospect, we should have gone to the exit and backed in.  The driveway was “defined” by low ragged bushes. 

tight camping spot
Tight, left hand turn

The expensive stump
The expensive stump.

 The kind one might think you can drive right along with no real issue.  There was a foot and a half tall stump, hidden right in the edge.  Debbie was driving, but I was watching as she hedged to the right to make the turn.  Not until the stump was bending in a storage door did either of us realize what was going on. I walked up, parted the bushes and saw the thghing. 

Sigh…..  A few days later, I saw, in another camp ground, a class A have the same issue.  The difference was, the stump was only about 8 inches tall, thus it was noticed when the tire bumped into it and thus no damage was done.

The campground we are sitting in now is a national.  Much of it has newly paved asphalt roads and pads – nicely level. They have concrete bumpers in back so you don’t fall off the pavement.  That’s good because the asphalt is so high (a foot higher in some places) above the surrounding ground that going “off-road” could be a serious problem.  But – the sizes they calculate are based on a trailer or RV backed up to the bumper, hanging off into the campsite with the front of the trailer, just off the road.  If you have slides or can’t manage to park your RV exactly on the edge of the pad, there is little to no place to park your tow or toad.  All over the park, people are having to park on the side of their pads – technically against the rules, but since there is no other place, the park attendants look the other way.  The frustrating thing is there is plenty of room to add 8 feet to the end of the pads or 2 feet to the sides.  But now they spent money on new pads – so that won’t happen for another 20 years, if ever.  I just hope some bureaucrat doesn’t decide to change the rules on lengths of RV allowed into the park.  We put up with the tight spots because the alternative is an expensive private park, an impossibly rough road to a boondocking spot or a Wal-mart parking lot.  

So, let me back up a bit.  After kicking around the badlands a bit, we headed for Banff.  Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada.  We scoured stories on the web and the horribly written government web sites about what to take or not to take over the border.  It wasn’t clear what we could or should leave in our pantry and refrigerator.  

Crossing the border turned out to be trivial each way, despite our worries.  Can we take meat?  Veggies in a package?  Eggs?  The rules on the web are not only confusing.  Often it seems they are written for commercial transporters but with a few deferential paragraphs for tourists.  In the end, they looked at our passports, asked us a question or two about where we were going and then said: “have a nice day”.  Here is the interesting thing.  We recently renewed our passports and had forgotten to sign them.  On the Canadian side – they never noticed (or cared).  On the return trip, the guard noticed and in passing mentioned it to us saying: “some guys would have issue with that, but he didn’t – just sign them before we use them again.”

Besides arthritis, our biggest issue has been Internet access/Cell access.  We crossed into Canada and our phones all became useless.  Before we went up there, I logged into my AT&T account and it said we were covered for North American international travel.  So, what’s the problem?  I didn’t want to just turn on International Roaming because of the horror stories about what that can cost you.  We finally turned it on, on one phone, and called AT&T to get confirmation that it was the correct thing to do.  Which it turned was ok.  Cell however in the middle of Alberta (Banff and Jasper NP) is still pretty scarce.    Cell access has been pretty bad as well as we descended back into the US, via Glacier, Yellowstone and the Tetons.  Between our two rigs, we have two hotspots and 5 phones.  The mysterious side of it all is that at any given time, half of them would be totally locked out of the cell-data and the other half would have access – and on any given day, which ones remained usable were different.  All are on the same family plan.  We have an “unlimited” plan – which of course means unlimited to some bandwidth LIMIT, then your data use is up to the discretion of the local cell site – “managing” your data use as it sees fit.  At the Tetons, there were no less than 5 AT&T towers that my hotspot and phones could “see”.  Connectivity constantly switched between 3G, 4G, LTE – mostly with no actual data connectivity.  After a few days (and roll-over of my monthly quota) all of our phones started to work – not just some of them.  Now here is the weird part.  Data was often so non-existent that not even text messages would go out.  BUT, fire up Netflix and we could actually stream a show.  Even weirder, once streaming, other web access would work or work better.  Go figure….. I just assume it’s faulty programming at the cell towers, some “Netflix magic” or simply the whim of the “network management” software.

Banff was great – as was the trip we took up to Jasper.  We did some hiking there as well.  The only real RV availability for both our rigs, however, was the overflow parking lot near Lake Louise.  It was literally a parking lot – that often filled up during the day with RV’s that then used their toad to tour the parks.  But there was always room at the end of the day for those of us who were staying the night.  We swung over to Canada’s Glacier National Park, then down to Waterton Lakes National Park, both great places to see as well.  

At Waterton, we took a long hike, dog and all on a wonderfully warm and sunny day.

Before we leave Canada:  The following are some things we believed we noticed as foreigners in a foreign land.  Only some Canadians used the “eh” for which they are claimed to be famous for.  More importantly, Canadians are polite, friendly, helpful.  Not so much more than Americans, but universally more of them are, and to a greater extent, than their neighbors to the south.  

Canadian National Parks ALLOW DOGS ON MOST TRAILS!! Are bears less dangerous up there?  I don’t think so.  The only reason we could think of (and we have other examples) was that Canadians, in general, follow the rules better and don’t need so many restrictive attempts to control those people who can’t pick up or manage their animals according to common decency.  Camping in American National Parks with a dog is a hassle.  They are not allowed on trails – literally off any sidewalk or parking lot.  They can’t be left alone in vehicles either.  Arthritis doesn’t like being on the trails either, thus back in the states, Pebbles and I hang out together much of the time while everyone else goes hiking.  

Canadians have cool paper money.  They also have Loonies and Toonies: one and two-dollar coins.  While we in America have talked for years about changes to our coin system, Canada took the logical steps years ago.  They dropped their penny and added one and two-dollar coins. 

We were in Canada over a week before we had to actually touch cash.  Laundromats only take cash coins (loonies).  My Visa debit card wouldn’t work at ATMs.  Banks were closed (weekend).  We managed to get some cash at a Wal-mart, provided we purchased something. 

Dealing with kilometers, Liters and dollar exchange rate was, of course, weird, but again, the United States is the hold-out on refusing to go to the metric system.  

We arrived back in the states just as the Going to the Sun Road opened in Glacier and we managed to snag a couple of spots in Apgar campground.  Not ideal spots, but we moved one RV the second day next to the first and it was a great place to explore from.   It is VERY shady in Apgar and RV spots are surrounded by very tall pine trees that if one looks around the campgrounds, are not very well anchored in the ground.  Within a 100 feed of our rig were three trees that had some time in the recent past, fallen and

Hail storm at Apgar
Hail storm at Apgar

been cut up.  Dirt was still on the roots.  We did have one evening there, that the blowing, creaking trees made us more than a little nervous.  Also, being a very old campsite, none of the spots were very level, necessitating pulling out most if not all of our leveling blocks.  Just a bit of gravel would have helped, but yes, I’m just whining.  Glacier is still wonderful.

Here is a little rant:  Leveling blocks……  Those of us who have had to try to level in some pretty rough spots (not just while boondocking), there are two features we desperately need out of our blocks:  1. Height – the ability to place an object beneath tires or jacks to raise that side/end of the vehicle.  2.  Something stiff enough to spread the weight of the tire(s) over a larger surface when parking on saturated or sand surface.  2x8s or 2x10s work well for raising a wheel in increments of 1 and 5/8ths inches and creating support on soft surfaces.  But they are heavy and have a tendency to split, right down the middle. I now have a bunch of split leveling blocks that might end up in a campfire but might end up in yet another experiment.  I’m thinking that if I drill a hole, through the blocks and bolt the broken sections together (with glue), it might make them strong enough to hold up to an RV. (update: I’ve used threaded rod to hold several blocks together and so far, after a few uses, they have worked well.)

The plastic blocks are expensive but they can be stacked like legos.  Like legos – they are vacuum formed and open on the bottom which means they are useless on soft ground without first placing boards beneath them. 

There are various commercial and DIY rubber blocks, that are simply a compromise.  They don’t provide much support on soft ground and are even heavier than wood.  

I also own two sets of curved roll-on-ramp style levelers, but they were way too narrow for larger tires of a Class A.  Thus, to use them on the rear of duals on a class A, I use FOUR of them to properly support one side of the rear.  They are heavy and are a pain to use.  Deb is pretty good about driving upon them (all the blocks).   Wait – using leveling blocks on a Class A with hydraulic levelers?  Yes, we are those people who don’t think it is ok to jack up our rigs to half our wheels no longer touch the ground.  So, we level with blocks first to get close, then let the leveling system finish the job.  Hydraulic jack systems can leak.  Having the wheels not suspended in air will limit how far the RV shifts if one of the jacks decides to take a break or we get caught in 70+ mph winds. 

I’m also thinking about experimenting with engineered beams or several laminations of high-grade plywood.  We shall see how that goes.

From Glacier we went on to Yellowstone.  We camped just outside, north of West Yellowstone.  We saw Old faithful, quite a number of geysers, pools and steam vents as well as Bison, elk, bear, wolves (from a great distance), eagles, deer and a fox.  It’s a wonderful place.  Parking is a pain.  Way, way too many people.  Yes, Yellowstone is wonderful, but I prefer to find quieter places.  On the way back to camp one evening – the sky was lit a brilliantYellowstone Fire Sunset orage.  Our first thoughts were “forest fire”.  As the minutes ticked by, it became clear it was just sunset, bit it was spooky for a while. 

Before moving on.  There is a Taco Bus in West Yellowstone – that we highly recommend.  If you like Taco Bell – don’t bother, but if you want authentic and great Mexican fare, definitely stop by right on the main north-south street.  

The Tetons are amazing.  We drove down in Idaho and the west side. Arriving in the Tetons, we chose to try Gros Ventre campground (we stayed there Grand Tetonspreviously) and found a couple of spots.  Our plan was to land for a night, then go scout the various boondocking spots we’ve heard about.  Most of them were down incredibly rough roads and thus were out for our rigs.   We found a couple of possible sites, very buggy, a long way from any place we wanted to visit.  So, we picked a couple of better sites at Gros and reserved a few more days.

As I pick this up again, we are headed across Nebraska for Iowa.  We are hopping across the Midwest, one or two nights in each spot, driving 5-6 hours a day.  Home, for us, means a long list of chores to get done, more downsizing and plans for the next trip, oh and some doctor appointments that are already lined up.  

Solar Installs

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Tomorrow’s Journey Solar Saga

We had hoped to install solar while we were on our winter trip to the southwest.  Sometimes things just don’t work out the way we dream. But the trip was fruitful in many ways – we met a great solar supplier and ended up with four Battle Born batteries at a great price from the Battle Born booth at Quartzite.  But, I’m getting ahead of myself.

Debbie on our daughter’s
roof, preparing to feed wires down through the front cap.

Our basic philosophy on solar was to start with a modest build but design and install wherever possible with a maximum installation in mind.  The solar also needed to make sense with our power needs and the size of our battery bank.  Based on our expected needs and the fact we already had 400 amp-hours of lithium, we choose to install four 200Watt solar panels, but to design and install components based on an eight-panel, or 1600 watt system.  Our wire sizes, combiner box, and solar controller are all sized to carry that size of a system.

wasted could be battery space
Wasted could be battery space

Installing more battery will require restructuring and/or expanding the battery bay.  Our current bay barely holds four batteries, but mostly because it uses a slide-out tray (which requires slack cables and a place for them to move) as well as a control panel that just plain wastes space.  It doesn’t make sense to double the solar but maintain the same battery, so any future expanse will be quite a project in itself.

We also chose to upgrade our inverter from a Magnum 2000 to a Victron Multi 3000.  This brings all of our major power devices under the same vendor and common management software as well as providing a bit more power and functionality. On our first winter trip, we had to be a bit more conscious of our AC current draw than we’d like to be. Also the Victron will work in Hybrid mode – monitoring the current and picking up the slack when needed.

Parts

We met Matt Dalley from ContinuousResourses.com under the big tent at Quartzite.  He was quite helpful.  While I am an electrical engineer, I had no experience in the world of RV solar and have more than a few things to learn.  Matt was very helpful, working through several renditions of my design and answering more than a few questions.  In the end, I ordered almost the entire system through him.  I am quite happy with all the products I received. One thing I must note though. When you order, you won’t get one big box with all your parts.  You will get a box every day or so, for a week or so, drop-shipped from various locations around the country.  In the end, this saves you money and I wasn’t in a big hurry anyway.

So, here is a list of parts:

  • 4 x 200W Hitec solar panels
  •  4 x panel mounting bracket kits (can be upgraded to tilt)
  •  30 ft of 4/0 ultraflex battery cable and lugs (new wire from inverter to batteries)
  • 30 ft of 4AWG UltraFlex battery cable and lugs (roof combiner to solar controller to inverter)
  • 80 ft each of red and black, 10AWG PV wire for wiring panels (enough for 8 panels no matter where they are on the roof)
  • 4 x MC4 2 in 1 branch connector (that I actually didn’t need, was thinking parallel at one point)
  • Combiner box with 4 inputs and breakers for 8 panels (4 sets of 2 in series)
  • Blue Sea Class T fuse block with cover (up to 400Amps) and 400 Amp fuse (for the eventual replacement of Battery catastrophic fuse)
  • Victron Energy ve.direct and RJ45 UTP network cables and adapters
  • Midnite Solar Baby Box and two breakers for switching panel inpu and Controller output.
  • Blue Sea Battery Switch
  • Victron Energy SmartSolar 150/100 Tr Charge controller with Bluetooth
  • Victron Energy MK3-USB interface
  • Victron Energy MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 Inverter-charger 120V
  • Victron Energy WiFi module (to connect Color Control to wifi)
  • Victron Energy Color Control GX monitor
  • Install kit – lots of misc parts.

Some explanation.  The 4/0 cable from the inverter to batteries was because the 2000 watt inverter in place was on the left side of the RV and batteries on the right.  While 2/0 cable that was in place is technically big enough for 3000 watts, it seemed like a good time to make sure the longer cable run was as good as it could be.  

Combiner just forward of rear cap.
Combiner just forward of rear cap.

I studied for some time as to where to put my combiner box, and thus the drop through the RV to the left rear bay where the controller would be installed.  After carefully considering the various walls and closets I might end up drilling through, I decided no drilling through the cabin was the solution. I chose to put the box at the rear of the RV and bring the wire down through the rear cap.  This made the future runs to solar panels mounted forward fairly long, but I ran through the calculations and the losses were minimal.  Better to make the series panel runs longer and the combiner to solar controller shorter as it carried the higher combined current that was easily handled by the 4AWG cable. 

Series or Parallel?

I waffled for some as to whether it would be better to put all my panels in parallel or some combination of series+parallel. With all the air conditioners, vents, etc. on the roof, something is going to be shaded any time the sun isn’t nearly overhead. If you shade one panel of two in series, you lose most of both. The other side of the argument though is if you put panels in series – there is more voltage for the controller to work with early and late in the day. I even considered running a pair of wires to each panel and doing the serial/parallel connections in my combiner box. In the end, I chose to serial two panels, each on the same side and parallel the groups. At least two panels should be making full power no matter where the sun is coming from. If I decide to change things later, it’s just a bit of wire, some connectors and/or 4 more panels.

Burnt Fuse and busbar
Burnt Fuse and busbar
Melted Inverter Switch
Melted Inverter Switch

A bit of relevant history. While we were out west on our first trip, we were clearly having a voltage problem – the inverter would complain about low voltage or simply drop out if we ran more than one appliance. This was a big part of the reason we went ahead with the Battle Born battery purchase at Quartzite.  The culprit, however, turned out to be a faulty catastrophic fuse connection mounted on the back of a switch control panel in the inverter power path.  The poor connection generated so much heat, it melted part of the panel including the inverter power switch which caused it to fail.  The fuse itself never failed – just the interconnect was resistive and thus got very hot. As a part of my solar plans, I intended to replace this entire panel, but because of time constraints, this part of the plan wasn’t executed.  It is still on my ToDo list. See the rest of this story on Youtube, Here.

Finally, we considered long and hard, on how to attach the panels to the roof.  So, this is a good time to segway into the FIRST install:

My Daughter and husband also bought 2 x 100-watt panels and an MPPT controller in Quartzite.  We were uncertain how they would use the panels – whether like a suitcase or on the roof.  It’s a rubber roof – so VHB tape was out.  The roof construction is basically rubber over 3/8ths (if that) plywood over styrofoam. Dropping screws into that combination doesn’t instill one with great confidence that the panels won’t become airborne. After some consideration, we decided to use butyl tape, well nuts and of course self-leveling sealant.  Since my arthritis had kicked into overtime, my duties were primarily supervising and/or critically important adjustments.  Thus, I made the mounting brackets out of angle aluminum (using jigsaw and drill press in the garage). I also drilled and tweaked the holes in the roof for the well nuts, but not a lot else.  We drilled the holes and carefully trimmed them so the well nuts would just fit.  We used ½” diameter, 1” long with ¼-20 brass inserts along with 1 ¼” stainless bolts. We attached the brackets to the solar panels, set them in place and marked the holes.  Then we moved the panels off, drilled the holes, pushed in the well nuts, laid a small amount of butyl tape around the hole.  Then the panels went back in place, were screwed down tight (two bolts per bracket), then self-leveling sealant on top.  They are very solid.  We configured the panels in series and taped down the solar wire with 2-inch segments of Eternabond tape.  A small roof entry box was mounted over the hole drilled in the front cap top to feed the main wires down to the solar controller and combination circuit braker and cutoff switch that we mounted inside the front storage.

2 x 100 Watt panels
Holes for Well Nuts.

Overall, it was a simple install.  Because the panels were going near the front of the trailer, we chose to use 6 brackets each.    We ran 4AWG cables from there to the batteries. Two hundred watts has been a good fit with the two 6V GC2 lead-acid batteries they have for storage.  It has been a couple of weeks now, and the panels keep up with most of their daily needs as long as they are parked in the sun.  They don’t have a big inverter, so they do run their generator when making a pot of coffee or when they need to run the Air Conditioner.

So back to the main event. I survived the mini-build, so we decided to go ahead and tackle the class A build.   This is central Illinois in the springtime, so we had to try to plan for a few days without major rain.  Of course, the forecast changes hourly, so we got chased indoors more than once.  

Our panels went on first. They came with four brackets each that hooked on and provided a pivot point that could be used with additional hardware (not supplied) to allow the panels to be tilted.  These brackets hooked over the panel and attached with a single bolt. I’m a “two is one and one is none” kind of guy, so we drilled and added a second bolt to each bracket. I scoped out 9 possible locations on the roof – we choose 8, then the four initial spots that would be toward the rear – but reserving the area at the very back for getting on/off the ladder and for the combiner box.  The box was bolted to the main cabin roof, but a 90 degree piece of PVC electrical conduit exited the back and entered the back cap for running wires down to the controller.  

We installed the panels pretty much the same way as with the earlier install – except we used the provided VHB tape between the roof and brackets and stainless bolts into ½” by 1” well nuts with ¼-20 stainless bolts, two per bracket.  They aren’t going anywhere.  We ran the solar wire – setting up the two left panels in series and the two right in series, each pair to a breaker, connected in parallel before the 4AWG cables going down to the solar controller.  

Our left rear storage had the Magnum inverter, our power controller/EMS and our 50 Amp shore power cord already in it.  But there was plenty of room for the solar controller and the slightly larger Victron Inverter/Charger.  We mounted a piece of plywood on the inner wall, then the solar controller and the mini breaker box.  The cable from the panels went into the mini-breaker box, through a 60-amp breaker – out to the controller, then the output from the controller went into the mini-breaker box, through a 100-amp breaker and out to the main DC power cables that fed the Victron Multi.  The mini breaker box not only protects the input/output of the controller, but also allows me to isolate the controller from the panels and the batteries.

Then I double checked that all the power lines to/from the Magnum had corresponding connections on the Victron Multi (and were labled), took a deep breath, and swapped them out. And it all worked!  Once I remembered to flip on that tiny switch in front of the Victron Multi to the correct position..  

DC power distribution
Back of DC power distribution Panel

To back up a notch, we ran the 4/0 cables from the Victron (left rear storage) to the battery bay (right rear), pulling out the 2/0 that was there.  When I got up to pulling the old control panel – I realized I needed more hardware I didn’t have on hand, so we hooked up the 4/0 cables without changing the panel.  Here is one of those odd things you run into that makes you scratch your head (or bang it on the wall), wondering WHY they build RV’s this way. The ground cable from the inverter, ran to a bolt mounted on the battery bay wall.  From there a ground cable ran back to the top of the frame to another bolt (totally inaccessible).  From there a ground cable ran to the batteries.  Thus, I was not able to replace all of the 2/0 cable – at that time.  Most of it, however, is better than none of it. When I deal with the panel, I will make sure I have 4/0 though the entire path from battery to inverter.

Since the main inverter switch is actually in the right-side battery bay, an unintended consequence of this particular install was that the Solar only charges the batteries when the inverter switch is on.  Not too big a deal as when we are using the RV, it is always on.  When in storage, it might be a different situation, so likely I will move the Inverter switch to the left storage bay, or reinstall the 2/0 positive cable just for the solar controller to the battery (my preferred solution).  This last solution would also bypass the main battery switch, so I could shut off power to the RV, but still keep the batteries charged.

So, we’ve only had a few days of actual use – boondocking.  On a mostly sunny day, it keeps up with our use (refrigerator, coffee maker, TV, microwave, two laptops running much of the day, etc).  Since leaving home (a week now), we’ve only run the generator once for about an hour. In South Dakota it is running 600+ watts several hours of the day and we hit over 800 once.  I’m quite happy with it.  I’d be happier of course, with more battery and more solar so we had a several day reserve, but that won’t happen for a while.

Futures?

Replacing the battery switch/breaker panel and catastrophic fuses.

Rerouting some of the AC power. Right now, the AC leg that goes through the inverter only connects to the various plugs and appliances in the coach. The air conditioners and fireplace, for example, come off the EMS/Gen/Shore switch BEFORE the inverter. In theory, I could run one air conditioner off my inverter and batteries by using the inverter to boost power from a low current shore power source, But only by rerouting AC power for the air conditioner THROUGH the inverter. This will probably wait until we upgrade the system to more battery and more panels and I would install a switch so the air conditioner could be powered via either path. .

The only special tool I purchased for this install was a hydraulic crimper. I purchased this one: https://amzn.to/2FbUiXc on Amazon for $45.99.

Appropriately size well nuts can be hard to find. I scrounged through every hardware store in town, to find enough. While local HW stores would carry them, they often only had half a dozen or so of each size in stock. Make sure you get the ones with the thin shoulders so your brackets sit on the roof. The well nuts, or expansion nuts, as some places call them, need to be longer than the plywood/fiberglass on the roof – thus I used 1 inch long. I had some 1/2 inch versions and they didn’t hold properly in tests.

Feel free to ask any questions, here or over on youtube. Get to know use here on Youtube and please subscribe.

Postscript. I continue to be happy with the system. It won’t keep up with our needs when we are shaded as we are this week in Glacier, but it is working as designed. Its cool that as long as I have cell, I can connect back and see how the entire system is doing.

 

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