On the road again, sort of.

Before I unwind my tale – let me mention D and W campground outside Champaign Illinois.  They are just off I-57 and Marketplace.  They are a family owned and operated campground.  It has a nice spring fed lake and lots of trees.  The grounds are well maintained including the roads.  It is a great place to stay overnight or for months.

We are back on the road, sort of.  We spent several months near our home base – working on landscaping, selling stuff from the house, giving away more and lots of other chores.  We plan to sell the house next year, so there is so much downsizing to do.  We sold our electric bikes and bought a new pair we liked better.  Then there was the sump drainpipe that needed expensive repair work and the new computer we hope will extend the life of the very old laptop I type these blogs on.  We are both photographers and edit pictures and videos.

We also replaced the shade motors on the windshield sun and night shades.  The night shade started acting wonky, stopping in the wrong place, refusing to reprogram. I found the motors on Amazon.  When I went to replace them, I found two things.  There is a brown wire that is supposed to be connected ignition so the night shade can’t be lowered too far while driving.  It was connected only to thin air.  No ignition wire to be found nearby.  The other thing I found; as I was untangling the cables – one spade connector on the night shade (the one with the problem) just fell off as it wasn’t crimped well.  So, both motors were replaced and went into storage as they might just be ok.

We traveled north to Wisconsin to spend a week with family – then will head back to home base for a week for one last medical test before we head out west.

Of course, every trip has its problems.  When we left the campground that we had been at for a couple of months, everything worked fine.  The slide even worked several times when we were there (we pull in the main slide whenever we have storm winds forecasted in the 60 mph range).

We pull into our Wisconsin park and neither the jacks nor the main hydraulic slide would work.  Now we had problems previously with the HWH hydraulic system and I ended up replacing both of the solenoids mounted on the pump system.  And the repair seemed to work.  It did work for a short trip and several uses while parked.

But when we arrived, the leveling panel was dark and nothing, even the emergency push buttons wouldn’t work.  Big Sigh…..  When we pushed the extend button for the main slide, it moved out just a little and that was it.  Basically – the hydraulic controller released the pressure holding the slide cylinder in and it moved on its own.  I jumped power directly to the hydraulic motor and the slide extended.  I think we were just lucky on that.

After looking through what HWH hydraulic diagrams I had, I went looking for a 5-amp fuse – and found one inside the dash.  Blown.  Wonderful place Tiffin.  When I replaced it, the leveling control panel powered up.  That panel talks to a controller (included in the front left storage bay) via a CAN bus and that controller talks to the hydraulic valve controller mounted with the pump.

There are two solenoids at the pump.  The MASTER solenoid provides power to the valve control body mounted on top of the pump AND provides power to the second solenoid.  The MASTER solenoid is turned on any time Ignition is on.  This along with the controller and the dash panel let you know if the jacks are in Travel Mode – or not, whenever you are driving.  However, that means that the MASTER solenoid must be a Continuous Duty solenoid – one that can stay energized for long periods of time.  If you just to go Amazon and order a 12V solenoid it likely is an intermittent version – like what you might use for a

intermittent solenoid used continuously: burnt wires.
intermittent solenoid used continuously: burnt wires.

starter.  I had mistakenly replaced my MASTER with just such a solenoid, and it did not survive the 7-hour trip between campgrounds.  I had a spare intermittent solenoid that I installed temporarily, and everything worked.  And I ordered a new, Continuous Duty solenoid that will be installed before our return trip.

Great – that is solved or will be once the correct solenoid arrives from Amazon.  Moving on – before we left home base, we purchased a new TPMS system.  The RVIBrake system got to be too big a hassle.  We bought a TST 507 with 10 sensors.  I went to program the sensors into the display – and they wouldn’t load in.  I tried multiple times.  I replaced a couple of sensor batteries just in case.  I watched four different Youtube videos on how to program these things and read two different instruction manuals on the process.  I was doing everything just exactly how it was shown.  Hold the sensor next to the bottom left side of the display, hit the GO button……  Nope, nadda, zilch…. So, I watched again, and again and realized that they often hit the go button first, then as the sensor got near the display, pop, the serial number was read.  When I tried mine, the serial number read – TWO inches away from the display.  Being too close, the signal must have been too hot to read properly.  I went on to load all 10 sensors and install them on the RV and pickup truck.

The TPMS worked on the way up to Wisconsin but a couple were a little flakey and as I suspected, the batteries weren’t new.  As I was replacing the batteries in the sensors, I noticed oil on the left rear wheel rim of the RV.  The axle seal was leaking…..  More videos.  With the F53, the entire wheel/brake disk/hub assembly freewheels on bearings on the end of the transaxle body.  A half shaft slides through the hub, into the transaxle, mating with a spline into the planetary gears and bolts to the outside of the hub.  Transaxle oil floods that space and is sealed in – with a paper gasket where the half-shaft bolts to the hub. Apparently leaks there is a thing with F53 transaxles.  The only socket wrench I had with me was an 8 inch 3/8ths drive. I put that on – and what were supposed to be 180 lb-ft tightened nuts moved with only moderate force.  Also, apparently insufficiently torqued axle flange bolts is also a thing with F53 transaxles.  There are Youtube videos showing people finding paper seals blown out, falling apart etc.  Mine were in place, so I bought a breaker bar and tightened all the nuts.  I cleaned up all the oil, so I could tell if it leaks again – added some oil to the transaxle (was only a little low).  Then I checked the other side too – loose but not leaking.

We are headed back to home base in less than a week – I’ll keep an eye on it and if it leaks, I’ll have to replace the seal.

A week at home base, then head west young man (and woman).

DC power management, replacement.

The Problem

I’ve mentioned in other posts the problems we’ve had over the years with the DC power panel located (in the 32SA) in the passenger rear compartment, next to the batteries.  This panel has the main battery cut-off switch, the Inverter DC power switch, four DC breakers for distributing power to various parts of the RV house and a hidden component the battery combiner relay.

The primary problem with this panel is the Inverter fuse which is a 1 by 1 by 3/4 DC power panelinch block mounted between the battery buss (leaving the main switch) and a buss bar that bolts to the back of the Inverter Switch.  Apparently, this bolt that holds that fuse between the two busses isn’t torqued properly and the design is such that heat builds up and the fuse insulation fails (adding to the problem).  As the fuse gets  hot, heat conducts up to the inverter switch and melts part of the switch until it fails.  There was even one report in facebook of this panel catching fire.

Recall

There is an NHTSA recall for this problem for various 2019 to 2022 models.  I personally don’t like the solution as covered in the recall.  If you have a 2000 watt inverter, the solution is to install a cable between the fuse and inverter switch (which won’t pipe heat directly up) as well as check the torque of the fuse bolt.  If you have a smaller inverter, they just check the fuse bolt torque.

I consider this panel to be a total fail.  In order to pull the panel to work on it, the only safe way is to disconnect the battery (usually recommended anyway) beause the support bracket comes very close to the main battery buss when removing the panel.  Fuses shouldn’t be buried behind panels.  The design of the fuse depends on a thin plastic insulator which fails as the fuse heats up which results in the bolt shorting the two busses which means there is no fuse.  Finally – the four DC circuit breakers are poorly supported and heavy wires are connected to them, also not supported/restrained, so sometimes just pulling the panel out and putting back in causes one of the breakers to physically break (happened to me once and also happened to a tech at Red Bay while he was replacing this panel).

The Replacement

The following describes MY solution.  I’m not recommending this for everyone.  It requires significant expense, tools and expertise most RVers would have issue with.

I designed a “replacement” for the
DC power components Tiffin/Lippert DC distribution panel.  It is all based on discrete components and thus takes up a lot more room.  It is amazing just how much stuff, Tiffin (Lippert) stuffed into that tiny panel – and not amazing why parts of the original panel failed so often.

Note:  some who are familiar with my story might say – you installed Lithiums and that overloaded the panel.  Nope.  Right out of the gate on our first trip, with the original Lead Acid batteries and original Magnum Inverter, anytime we used the inverter for a significant load (like the microwave), the inverter had fits and often shut down and the Spyder system rang a low voltage alarm.  We ended up using the generator any time we needed to cook.

When we started out with the lithiums – I checked the alternator rating: 150 amps.  I never saw the batteries charging from the engine more than 90 amps.  I believe this is because the lithiums were never mostly discharged.  We often used the generator when boondocking rather than the engine to charge.  One night we spent boondocking behind a restuarant.  We hit the road very early in the morning while still dark out after running the batteries down to below 40%.  As we took off, I looked at the charging rate and it was 120 amps into the batteries.  Add in headlights, heater fan and anything else – we had to be pushing the generator on the engine to its limit for the first hour.  I didn’t like pushing it that hard.  My solution was to install a Victron DC to DC battery charger.  This will limit the engine to house batteries to 30 amps, which is fine because we rarely need to charge up the house batteries quickly with the RV engine.  It should keep me from pushing the engine alternator so hard.

The Tiffin battery connect solenoid links the house and chassis batteries any time the engine is running or when the battery linking switch on the dash is depressed (also maybe when generator is running).  I didn’t want it connecting when the engine is running – the DC to DC charger takes care of that by monitoring the chassis battery voltage to determine when the engine is running.   I disabled the Tiffin logic by putting a switch between it and the solenoid.  Thus I can flip the switch and still use the dash switch to connect the batteries.  My inverter has a trickle charger to keep the chassis batteries topped off so I don’t need the generator function either.